Eight chord shapes. That is all it takes to play a staggering amount of popular music, from campfire folk to classic rock. These are called open chords because they mix fretted notes with open, unfretted strings, and they are the foundation almost every guitarist builds on.
This guide shows each shape, the fingering that tends to work best, and the drills that turn slow, careful chords into quick, confident changes.
How to Read the Chord Shapes
Each chord below is written as six numbers, one for each string from the thickest (low E) to the thinnest (high E):
- A number is the fret to press.
- 0 means play the string open.
- x means do not play that string (or mute it).
Fingers are numbered 1 = index, 2 = middle, 3 = ring, 4 = pinky.
So x32010 for C means: skip the low E string, press the A string at fret 3, the D string at fret 2, play the G string open, press the B string at fret 1, and play the high E open.
Start Here: E Minor and A Minor
Em 0 2 2 0 0 0 fingers: 2 on A string, 3 on D string Am x 0 2 2 1 0 fingers: 2 on D, 3 on G, 1 on B
E minor is the friendliest chord on the guitar: two fingers, all six strings. Strum it and enjoy the fact that you are already playing a real chord.
A minor uses the same finger shape as E major, moved over one string. Do not strike the low E string; start your strum from the open A.
Switch back and forth between the two slowly. Notice that your second finger stays close to the same fret in both shapes. Looking for shared or nearby fingers like this is the secret to fast changes.
The Big Three: C, G and D
C x 3 2 0 1 0 fingers: 3, 2, open, 1, open
G 3 2 0 0 0 3 fingers: 2, 1, open, open, open, 3
(or 3 2 0 0 3 3 with fingers 2, 1, -, -, 3, 4)
D x x 0 2 3 2 fingers: 1 on G, 3 on B, 2 on high EC is the first chord that asks your fingers to stretch. Arch each finger so it does not touch the string beneath it. The most common problem is the third finger leaning on the D string or the first finger muting the high E.
G has two popular versions. The three-finger version is easiest to start with. The four-finger version, with both the B and high E strings at the third fret, sounds fuller and sets you up for smoother changes to C and D later. Pick one and stick with it for now.
D only uses the top four strings. Start your strum from the open D string. If the high E string sounds dull, your second finger is probably lying too flat.
With G, C and D, plus E minor, you can play the four-chord progression behind an enormous number of pop and rock songs.
E Major and A Major
E 0 2 2 1 0 0 fingers: 2, 3, 1 A x 0 2 2 2 0 fingers: 1, 2, 3 (or 2, 1, 3)
E major is E minor with one more finger: add your first finger at the first fret of the G string. That single note is the difference between a minor (darker) and a major (brighter) chord.
A major squeezes three fingers into the second fret. If they do not fit, angle them diagonally, or try fretting all three notes with the pad of one finger. Many players use different fingerings for A; any version that rings cleanly is fine.
D Minor: The Eighth Shape
Dm x x 0 2 3 1 fingers: 2 on G, 3 on B, 1 on high E
D minor is the moody cousin of D major. It shows up often in songs in the key of C and A minor, and it rounds out a set that covers most beginner songbooks.
Why Your Chord Buzzes (and How to Fix It)
When a chord sounds fuzzy or a string thuds, check these in order:
- Finger position. Move each fingertip right behind its fret wire.
- Finger angle. Come down on the strings from above, using the tips. A flat finger mutes the string below it.
- Thumb position. If your thumb is hooked over the neck, try dropping it to the middle of the back of the neck. That brings your fingertips up and over the strings.
- Pressure. Squeeze only as hard as you need for a clean note. Too much pressure pulls notes sharp and tires you out.
- The guitar itself. If a note buzzes no matter what you do, it may be a setup issue. Our guitar buzz diagnostic guide helps you tell the difference.
Play each chord one string at a time, from low to high. Any string that does not ring tells you exactly which finger needs to move.
Drills for Faster Chord Changes
The one-minute change. Pick two chords, set a timer for 60 seconds and switch between them as many times as you can while keeping each chord clean. Write down your score. Repeat daily. Watching the number climb is great motivation.
Lead with the anchor finger. Look for a finger that stays put or moves the least between two chords. In C to Am, your first and second fingers do not move at all; only the third finger shifts. Let that anchor guide the rest.
Shape in the air. Lift your hand a centimeter off the strings and form the next chord before it lands. Your fingers should arrive together, not one at a time.
Change on the beat. Strum four times per chord with a metronome, then three, then two, then one. The pressure of a steady beat forces your hand to get there faster.
Pairs to Practice First
Work through these in order. Each pair is common in real songs:
- Em to Am
- Am to C
- C to G
- G to D
- D to A
- A to E
- G to Em
- C to Dm
Your First Progressions
Once the shapes feel familiar, play these with four down-strums per chord:
G - D - Em - C (a hugely common pop and rock loop) Am - C - D - Am C - Am - Dm - G E - A - D - A
What Comes Next
The F chord, a barre chord, is usually the next big hurdle. Get the eight open chords clean first; a full barre asks for hand strength that comes naturally after a few weeks of open-chord practice.
From here, put these chords in motion with Strumming Patterns for Beginners, or learn why these particular chords fit together in Music Theory for Guitarists. If you have not yet, start with the 30-day plan in Start Here.